How good is this weather!!

22 Apr 2010

Since getting back from Sicily and finding out that I was 4 weeks further on than I thought my body has felt less invincible, or rather my mental had to do a small adjustment.

In Sicily I was going with what felt right and what routes were available at the crag.  I knew falling might not be a good thing and I’m certain it’s not now.  I’ve taken the approach of continuing leading as long as possible.  Firstly I think I’ll feel like I’ve completely given in if I top rope from now on and secondly I’m putting off the dreadful idea of a body harness as long as possible (when leading sounds rather awkward with racking gear etc).  Thirdly I’ve got this idea that by leading I’ll control how much stress I put on my body as I’m only going for things I’m certain I won’t fall on.  This is my logic, which may well not be logical – every pregnant woman is different!!

So all this has led to trad climbing only.  Bouldering is out (although I did manage a whole easy circuit at the Works last week – but I’m probably stretching it a bit).  And then ‘easy’ sport climbing in this country isn’t easy and not quite as enjoyable as abroad.

 Wrinkle Slab VS, Bamford

Elaine and I did a great day at Bamford and did lots of VSs and HVSs I’d never done.  Sometimes I have a sensation that I need to make the most of every second at the crag as they’ll be a time when I can’t go.  Nic had to almost tear me off the crag in Sicily (knowing I'd pay for it the next day with tiredness).  So at Bamford we had 30 minutes left and I couldn’t resist the temptation of Auricle, a super E2.  There’s something challenging about knowing you can’t fall off, so I’m careful to make every movement perfect.  It takes a stretchy mini overlap – probably the limit of what my tummy muscles can take at the moment.  I felt really chuffed to do it!

Then we went to Eastby (near Skipton), Cookrise’s most definitely poorer brother.  Probably a one star crag.  Nice, but not brilliant.  I decided to lead the VSs as the harder routes seemed quite bold... until the VS’s started to become bold and I was more or less soloing...

 Pillar Rib VS, Eastby

The other good day was at Chee Tor.  After the hilarities of Bob having to wade into the river to recover Mia’s lost jelly shoe, I launched onto Meditation, a spectacular E1.  Chee Tor looks so rubbish and scrappy from afar, but when you get going it’s amazing.  I led another E1 and seconded a filthy E2 and an amazing E3, which my book says I’ve led before, but I couldn’t remember anything of it.

 Meditation E1, Chee Tor

It’s great climbing with no ambition; actually training and focussing on pushing yourself all the time is really quite tiring (mentally more than anything).  It’s quite refreshing for me to climb simply for the exercise and enjoyment of moving on rock.

I don’t know when my next time at the crag will be... I’ve got a rather exhausting time ahead of me:  this weekend I’m running a learn to lead course, then I’m doing a two week tour around the country with Lucy Creamer doing the BMC Rock Essentials.  All this with a wedding north of Fort William in the middle!  Help!  Slowing down doesn’t seem to be happening for me... yet!