Training going well

20 Jan 2012

Now did I mention I have a training plan??  Maybe!  Well it’s going well.  About 2 weeks ago I finally started the ‘preparation specifique’ phase.  So that was almost 2 months of ‘preparation generale’.  I needed it, lots of body conditioning, pull ups, push ups (all the traditional exercises that you know you should do but can’t really be bothered to) combined with volume on easier stuff climbing with a lower level pump.

Well we’ve moved on to much more focussed training for my goals and the pump levels have gone up!!  Last week I wondered whether I needed a week off but being a mum and juggling things had possibly just got on top of me a bit.  Vanessa started nursery one day a week last week and it’s just given me the space to get on with things much more easily.

Last night I went to the Foundry and it was my first chance in a long time to actually see where I was.  Last Monday I went to the Works to boulder and I knew I was the strongest by a mile that I’ve been in at least 2 years.  And I think I can say the same for last night on the routes.  The Foundry grades are certainly a law unto themselves and adding half a grade seems more realistic.   My foot slipped off the very last foothold as I was about to reach for the belay on a 7b.  And I managed a ridiculously hard 7a, which had nothing to do with 7a much more in the 7a+ world.  Things went steadily downhill after that, but what can you do if you only climb twice a week, I’m hardly planning to climb El Cap.

Maybe these grades don’t sound great but even when I’m climbing 8as outside I never seem to get past about 7b+ indoors.  So I’ve got another 6 weeks in my ‘preparation specifique’ before heading to the south of France for 2 weeks.  Flights are finally booked.  I have a good feeling about this year’s climbing.  I am hoping I’ll be back to full form on the routes by the Summer.  I do hope so.  We’ll see!

If you would like a training plan like mine visit Team Kyou's link on facebook or contact Corinne direct therouxgermond@wanadoo.fr

PS I've been working on these courses this week for young people:  Rock Action, a residential climbing camp now in it's fourth year and two Rock Action sport climbing weekends.  Please pass on the link to anyone you know who maybe interested.